Mexico
desert. Heat (at slaughter). Cacti.
Sunday 30 July 2006 to Saturday 05th August 2006
Here are the first impressions of Mexico.
Together with Magnus (so) I'm going on the Baja California suedwarts. There are "only" about 1200 kilometers to La Paz
The first few days along the coast to El Rosario de Abajo are annoying because of the high truck traffic (especially in the giant trucks) a full concentration and all Radfahrkuenste demanded. The roads have hardly any margins, if they do, very narrow and often 20-30 cm deep in Irregular demolition lying. But I can not say that the Mexican motorists are ruthless. Care has only just me and that's always been possible.
After three days it goes up into the desert and on a plateau 500-800 m. Desert is something fascinating. Truck traffic is manageable. Dear Eric Hantzsche, we have two days pass by cactus "forests" that you could cry for joy joy. This is something we have both (Magnus from Canada and I) have not seen before. If you have that area in the blazing heat (we had one day 38-42 ° C at the wheel) the hinauffaehrt partially endless seemingly uphill runs of welding an over cheeks and drip on the map pocket, you no shadow of a tree or has a building, the wind brings (although often from behind) one, the only cooling, but also at times warm, as if from a hot oven blows, one as a refreshing warm water from the bottle takes pleasurable to himself, one of the familiar smell of the total sweaty jerseys and schweissgetraenkten hat (I bought in San Francisco against sunburn on the head) is surrounded, then one can almost speak of an enjoyable holiday but at least an unforgettable adventure vacation.
Two days desert with Magnus (then he flies back to Vancouver) and three days on the east coast to La Paz, then I set about the ferry to Los Moschis to me one of the most spectacular railway lines in the world, a old copper track, to trust for several hours. Then it's back towards the coast and in the direction of Guatemala, and I - was planning a trip to historical sites in the south of Mexico - if time permits. Then I will return . Report
deck with reserves up to now in my self-imposed schedule.
anger can sometimes help. Ride with CHEP.
Sunday 06th August to Monday 14 August 2006:
Yes, the days were at the HI Baja California still hot (some 45 º C at the wheel). And so, above all, it was early at 9 clock until the afternoon and little opportunity to stay in the shade. Since we arrived (we were now for 3 days in a threesome with Tom , a Politklehrer from NY) at a campground, a small lake - even if the water was not cold - like a little Miracles before and the next day we had again a place to swim. When I just drove (Magnus had been flown home), I found even once a very beautiful camp site with swimming pool , next to where I slept the same (the tent I built because of the heat in it, because at night, no air circulation, not only on) and in the night sometimes into the water rose. Such are the little things that you have to heat the daily tours a field day.
La Paz - Los Mochis ran like clockwork. I had to ride on Saturday morning, only 35 km, arrived in La Paz, took pictures and wanted to check in 18 km from the port Pichilungue only by ferry. "Yes, they can To drive is in three hours. "This was a surprise, I with joy, even took a lunch with me (on the ship there was another meal, the fare included), fast times rose into the warm water of the local bay . and I embarked then
Shaved I am still on the ship, washed my sweaty Radklamotten and I was still out the departure times of trains, "CEPE" Chihuahua -.. Pacifico leaves early at 6 clock and 7 clock Sun I took on the Mainland Mexico Topolobampo (port 28 km from Los Mochis), only one night.
two families and a ship's officer provided me with the information and I was soon after arriving at my hotel bed. I had to get up the next morning at 5 in the dark clock and take the wheel. Head lamp in place and turned on at the approaching cars, but that I needed on the 28 km only 5 times. I found the station to questions 10 minutes before train departure. I wanted to buy the ticket. As an inspector came to me: "Is that your bike?" "Yes." "You can not take. We do not carry bikes." The blow that struck me was unimaginable. I should not come along where everything had been worked out so well. I asked, begged, pleaded. Nothing. An official came even to me. "Ask the times there, it has to be determined." "Thank you". And I asked. No way there. The train will drive off without me and the wheel. That could not be. Also, Alaska - Land of Fire "did not help (here I must say that officials understood and spoke English). The train rolled on and I was almost crying beside it. In one Mexican, Hollywood-style tantrum I threw the bike on the train platforms, drumming his fists on the plate of an opposing Gueterwagens - to respond only to my endless rage. And, oh wonder, I never thought possible or even would have expected, the train stopped again. The engine driver - apparently the same status on the train, like a captain on a ship - rose from his Lok (he had probably watched me in the Rear-Lok), asked what was going on and when he had said that he meant to take me and the wheel. Now I also helped the officials, which I had previously rejected - though with a face of expression - to load my luggage and bike (I had to later take apart yet - HR and VR out tie, and they presented it to the engine room of the diesel locomotive - Another nightmare for me: If the tires to withstand the heat - they held out).
If I now write about the trip, so it sounds almost banal.
It was really a spectacular ride. 653 km, 73 tunnels, 28 bridges, up to 2,400 meters high, 16 hours, 660 pesos (= 55 EURO). By a dream landscape with ravines - really deep - and fantastic mountains, waterfalls, beautiful valleys, incredibly spectacular Streckenfuehrungen. This does not forget you. I would have not seen everything, when CHEP was traveling without me. And who ever comes to Mexico, should this route and get off in the middle for 2 more days to hike in the National Park.
Shortly after 23 clock I arrived in Chihuahua and took me about a hotel room at the station, after I had delivered my bike from his "prison" and rebuilt ready to go. The rest day today, took me shopping and photographing in the city where I behaved myself and my hotel was not the first time again, and the internet cafe. The 8th Raddurchsicht is in the evening.
Hope you had your joy in the report, but anger .... (So)
Now I was the rain (full) caught.
Tuesday 15 August to Thursday 31 August 2006:
From Chihuahua to get from the national highway 24 and 45 directly to Altiplana Mexicana, to about 1,800 m high plateau. But that's not as if you have an increase, then the top and drives like on one level. The first crossing of the "plate boundary" I had the train (Chepe) behind me (2,500 m), then it went to 1,800 m down to Chihuahua and then constantly 1800-2200 m up and down, before we then really for 2 days and reached a plateau as drive on a table. Hostels and campgrounds are there of course not, so one has to rely on bus shelters or tents. The latter protect a well in the rain. That then in the night time asks the police is a problem, say goodbye to good with a handshake and wish weiterhi n ride. Lying in a sleeping bag and about the stars and the lightnings of a first distant, then closer and closer coming storm, rain storm in the tent, those are experiences that you will not forget. The high level were among the most beautiful areas I've traversed so far, but also one of the most stressful. Then will find the exit, but you have only about 2,700 m to the other box, then it goes downhill. to have to connect without 4 x 6 km, 1 x 13 km and the coronation of 17 km at 800 m elevation difference, and I had, however, stop at 10 km, because I am a bolt had sheared off at Vorderradgepaecktraeger (faster replacement was not a problem). The coastal road from Mazatlan to the south offers scenic not much, because it does not directly along the coast. Driving is by constantly high green grass and trees, and felt almost moved to Ireland. Who thinks it would be a trip, flat and without any hills, is fooling himself enormously. The mountains of the Sierra range to the coast and it travels around the foothills and climbs it. I had here as much as in the High-meter climb to Altiplana Mexicana. But to compare with Ireland, this lack of rain - I thought. Until now it was only at night - and thoroughly - a thunderstorm and I was happy, almost always to be in a hotel. Yesterday, it caught me. I drove about 9 hours in pouring rain and my stuff was as wet as in the days before by the sweat. When it was humid all over her body wet before we had moved at all. But this time the moisture came directly from outside. But it was fun because the rain was warm. Today I got it for now but a sleep and working inserted to maintain clothing and gear. The next day it will not stop raining and I have to stop me from get used up early is not always able to put on dry clothes (the dry during the trip falls on the panniers so it away too). Could not read yesterday, the tour total distance first five digits (VDK), but only when the front is a TWO is an end of the tour to see, until then, there are still a few months.
Oh and there is Quinn. Have received a mail from his mother, I will stay an extra day in Lázaro Gárdenas because he has probably caught up with me then again. Our tour is it safe to continue and in January we celebrate (birthday).
hurricane. Quinn is back. Sofia and Anna from Poland. Quinn is gone. Chiapas. Müll.
Freitag 01. September 2006 bis Freitag 15.September 2006
Am Anfang gleich eine Korrektur. Der Regen, dem ich einen Tag lang heftig ausgesetzt war, das war nicht die Routine der Regenzeit sondern "nur" ein Auslaeufer des Hurricans der zwar ueber dem Meer blieb, aber in Acapulco einigen Schaden anrichtete. Von dem Regen bekam auch ich meinen Teil ab. Die "normale" Regenzeit aeussert sich jetzt hier so, dass es nachmittags oftmals mehr oder weniger heftige Gewitter gibt. Der Regen ist dabei stark aber oft auch nur leicht und nach einem Hitzetag erfrischend. Manchmal regnet es auch nur in der Nacht. Da ich jetzt oft im Hotel schlafe, macht mir das nichts aus.
the damage of the hurricanes we had felt, as we entered four days later in Acapulco, and a line of cars of more than 10 km only gradually in the direction of and in the city moving, because some roads were due Aufraeumungarbeiten still blocked on one side. We were able to pass the cars of course and were happy not to sit in the car. By WE I mean my cycling friends Quinn, whom I've met a few days earlier in Petatlán hatte.Vor again three days I lost him again, but that's another chapter (by e-mail contact, we will meet again).
The exquisite resort of Acapulco, we let it not take us to swim and to us by the to make waves carry. However, clear waters of the bay had not.
my last diary entry I had made in Lázaro Cárdenas. From there it was always along the coast to Salina Cruz. From the coast you can see only a few places a little, because the road usually leads slightly inland, unlike the "Shoreline Highway in the U.S..
We deviated from the coast and sailed into the Chiapasgebiet. A fantastic landscape that made me a bit reminiscent of the Alps and the Alpine foothills. If you hinauffaehrt from Tuxtla to San Cristobal de las Cases (45 km ONLY increase from 1,500 to 2,000 m), see below the more than 1,000 m below picturesque plains and the distant mountains of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas. One day before this increase, we also met the only bikers in Mexico. Ann and Sophia, two very young girls from Poland, were with their bikes on the road and came towards us. Mexico City, HI Yucatan, Chiapas and along the coast and then travel back to Mexico City. They had traveled from our meeting in 46 days 3600 km. We found them just great. Following a meeting, we said goodbye warmly, not without our e-mail and web-page addresses have changed. That day it happened that I got Quinn. For a long climb, he took advantage of a logging truck and let go up to .... and was never seen again. Tuxtla held for the next day for me still a treat ready: Cañon del Sumidero, a mountain cut, which is comparable if not on length but on the depth of well with the Grand Canyon in Colorado.
A Propblem, which one is facing here again is the pollution with garbage.
plastic bottles lying around everywhere, on the road, sideways, on the meadow in the woods, to other plastic and Haushaltmuell. (? And disposal), the Mueller's version - if any - has not been solved sufficiently. It works somewhat in the resorts and exemplary in the Nature Reserves (the Army holds its terrain, extremely clean). When I was yesterday in Guatemala at an idyllic mountain stream from such a dump took a picture, a black Muellbeutel me out of a car flew around the ears. The poor beautiful nature.
The U.S. per capita most certainly produce garbage, but there is at least the management model and controlled environmental sins have to pay heavily.
Stats
5412 km (+ 126 km), 25 213 Hm, 294:54 hours (404:35 hr)
40-days, 5 ½ repair and rest days, 2 Transport ½ days (ship, Eisenbahn)
136 km/Tag, 18,4 km/Std., 635 Hm/Tag, 466 Hm/100 km
Tourverlauf :
San Diego (USA) - Tijuana (Mexiko) - Guerro Negro - kreuzen der Halbinsel Baja California nach Santa Rosalia - Loreto - Ciudad Constitution - La Paz (1) - Pichilingue (Hafen 18 km noerdlich von La Paz) - Faehrueberfahrt nach Topolobampo (Hafen 25 km suedlich von Los Mochis) - Los Mochis - Zugfahrt mit "Chepe" nach Chihuahua - Hidalgo de Parras (16, 24) - Durango (45) - Villa Union (kleiner Ort 32 km suedlich von Mazatlán) (40) - Tepic (15) - weiter an der Kueste Puerto Vallarta - Manzonillo - Lázaro Cárdenas - Acapulco - Santa Cruz - Salina Cruz (200) - Sto. Domingo Tehuantepec - Juchitán de Zaragoza - San Pedro Tapanatepec - Tuxtla Gutierrez - San Cristobal de las Casas - Committee of Dominguez (190) - Ciudad Cuauhtemoc (Grenzort zu Guatemala)
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